Budapest Bound – Running, Ruins and a Bit of Goulash
We love visiting European cities, and Budapest in Hungary has long been on our list of favoured destinations — and now proudly marks the 21st European country we’ve visited. That’s quite a lot of passport stamps and even more fridge magnets.
The opportunity came when our running club organised a trip to the city to take part in the 40th Budapest Marathon Festival, an event offering distances from 5K to the full marathon — perfect for everyone from casual joggers to those who think “fun run” and “42 kilometres” belong in the same sentence. it was the perfect excuse to lace up the trainers and tick off our 21st European country. From ruin bars to the Danube’s sombre memorials, here’s how we ran, ate, and explored Hungary’s dazzling capital.
A City Worth the Wait
We flew from Stansted — another successful Ryanair flight. Mass travel at its most efficient, if not exactly luxurious. While we always prefer to travel in our motorhome, where the snacks are always within reach and don’t cost an arm and a leg. Flying was undeniably quicker. It also spared us precious days in what’s becoming a tricky Schengen 180-day travel jigsaw. Important given that future plans for Spain and Germany all fall within the same 180 period.
The Hungarian Parliament building.
Why Budapest?
We’ve always regarded Budapest’s with intrigue and it’s roots stretch back over 2,000 years to Aquincum, a Roman military outpost. The city blossomed under the Austro-Hungarian Empire before suffering through the dual nightmares of Nazi and later Soviet occupation in the 20th century. The result is a city layered with stories — grandeur and grit, beauty and scars — all wrapped up in a culture that somehow manages to make paprika taste good on everything.
Getting Around the City
Getting around Budapest is delightfully easy. We used taxis, trams, trains, the metro and buses — all (apart from taxis) operated through an app called BudapestGO, which is intuitive, efficient, and doesn’t require a degree in Hungarian linguistics to use. Bolt and Uber both work here too, handy when your legs have already done 30 kilometres that day.
Pest vs. Buda – Two Sides of the Same Coin
Budapest is famously split by the Danube River — Buda to the west, hilly and historic, and Pest to the east, lively and buzzing. We based ourselves on the Pest side, largely due to a combination of running, socialising, and the occasional recovery nap. In true traveller fashion, we decided to leave something for next time — Buda’s hills will have to wait.
A taxi from the airport cost around £20 for the 30-minute journey, though we learned later that the bus is cheap, clean, and surprisingly punctual — definitely an option for next time, when we’re not racing the clock or juggling energy gels.
Streets, Eats and Ruin Bars
Budapest is one of those cities that feels good to wander — relaxed, walkable, and full of surprises. It’s a sophisticated capital with an edge of quirk. Food-wise, we indulged in braided sausage, goulash soup, and the heavenly chimney cake — all washed down with the local Dreher beer.
By night, the city sparkles. The restaurants and bars are vibrant and full of life — a mix of live music, laughter, and locals who clearly don’t believe in early nights.
And then there are the legendary ruin bars — quirky pubs set up in abandoned buildings, often in the old Jewish Quarter. Imagine fairy lights, graffiti, mismatched furniture and the faint sense you’ve accidentally wandered into an art project with a drinks licence. Utterly brilliant.
A City of Stories
The architecture in Budapest could fill a novel. Some facades whisper stories of triumph; others bear the marks of tragedy.
In the Jewish Quarter, the mood shifts. Once home to one of Europe’s largest Jewish populations, it was devastated during the Holocaust. Today, the Great Synagogue — the second largest in the world — stands as both a place of worship and remembrance. Sadly, the sight of heavy security around it is a sobering reminder that prejudice has not yet been confined to history.
The Danube – The City’s Beating Heart
The Danube River elegantly divides Buda and Pest, winding through the city like a silver ribbon. A riverside walk reveals some of Europe’s most spectacular architecture: the Hungarian Parliament Building, Buda Castle, Matthias Church, and the Chain Bridge, all beautifully lit after sunset. It’s the kind of view that makes you forget your legs ache from sightseeing — almost.
Memorials that Move You
Perhaps the most powerful site in the city is the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial — 60 pairs of iron shoes commemorating those executed along the river during World War II. Standing there, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of history.
Another poignant landmark honours those who died in the 1956 Hungarian Uprising, when citizens bravely rose against Soviet sponsored rule — only to be crushed by tanks and bullets. These tributes, though sombre, capture Budapest’s enduring resilience.
Despite the brutality of the Soviets , there are also memorials to the end of the World War , referencing the Soviets as liberators and honouring the sacrifices made by the Red Army.
St Stephen’s Basilica
No trip to Budapest is complete without a visit to St Stephen’s Basilica, named after Hungary’s first king and saint. It’s an architectural masterpiece, and if you climb (or take the lift) to the top, the panoramic views are spectacular. Inside, the story of Archbishop József Mindszenty — imprisoned and tortured by both Nazis and Soviets for standing up for his faith — adds yet another layer of reverence to this magnificent building.
The Budapest Marathon Festival
Of course, the main reason for our visit was to run — and the Budapest Marathon Festival did not disappoint. It’s one of Europe’s largest running events, attracting over 40,000 participants from 119 countries. The route winds past the city’s best landmarks — a sightseeing tour with added lactic acid.
After picking up our race packs at the expo on Friday, we joined the 5K fun run on Saturday and tackled the 30K on Sunday. It was a fantastic experience — scenic, well-organised, and surprisingly emotional. Watching the marathon runners cross the finish line stirred something in me. My last full marathon was back in 2012, but after this, I feel ready to chase that distance again.
Heading Home
The weekend flew by in a blur of miles, laughter, and paprika. A quick flight home later, we celebrated a birthday and started packing the van for our next adventure. Because if Budapest taught us anything, it’s that there’s always another journey waiting — and another story to tell.
Budapest: A City that Runs Deep
Beautiful, bold, and bursting with life — Budapest is a city that lingers long after you’ve left. Whether you visit for the history, the food, or to run along the Danube, it’s a place that will stay with you — rather like the taste of goulash and the temptation of just one more chimney cake.
For those who enjoy video media there is a link to a short video we made below.
